I personally changed the oil and the trans filter, but I was told that doesn't replace all the oil only the pan oil. Second I never had a error code or trouble code come up ,flash or was told by the the second mechanic he showed nothing on his diagnostic computer? Just jumping the pump relay does not turn on the air solenoid. If that doesn't do it you may need to seek assistance with a reliable mechanic. The other mechanic shop said he ran the diagnosis thru his snap- on computer system and found no codes and test drove it with his hand held plugged in but found no problem? But doesn't seem to be turning on vacuum solenoid to diverter valves and also not turning on relay to air pump. One method of purging air from the cooling system after repairs and flushing it involves refilling it, and running the motor and heater, and leaving the radiator pressure cap off to 'burp' off the air trapped inside.
Also, there is a kit upgrade available for the pump air intake that will prevent moisture in the future. If you don't you will be replacing them both again in a couple of months. These pumps come with all necessary components for easy installation, while other brands leave out integral components, such as inlets and outlets that commonly break during installation. Do you think it is a fuse? Carbon02 The secondary air system is really a simple system in theory: 1 Solenoid on back of engine, under cover energizes 2 Opens and applies manifold vacuum to two lines 3 Vacuum opens diaphragms left and right 4 Air pump injects air into exhaust manifold 5 Solenoid shuts off, drops vacuum, pump shuts off I would check all vacuum lines for breaks and kinks. Then do the same procedure to the left side.
Look in your owners manual to find the fuse. Answer: I'd recommend having the starter checked out. These pumps come with all necessary components for easy installation, while other brands leave out integral components, such as inlets and outlets that commonly break during installation. Another source would be car-part. I am out of ideas.
Id make an appointment to get it inspected, then clear the code before they take a look at the car, even do it in the parking lot, whatever. The valves are silver, and have small tubes running into the exhaust manifolds. They didn't replace any hoses, etc. I still am having a problem with the engine light staying on and I've had all recommended repairs done. I didn't know not having those clips could cause a leak I will definitely check those first. The enables both circuits simultaneously when Air system operations id desired. In all just cut bad part of hose out cleaned and rerouted it, engine light is staying off, and shops steal and lie.
We sell wholesale to the public. Thanks I will look into some of these ideas. Also if your car has a 4 cylinder and you are replacing the water pump, something they don't tell you is you have to replace the timming belt also. But I really dont know anything at all about that air-injection crap. The pump housing is very suspect - I can almost pull it apart with my hands. But found that a plumber's faucet wrench and a piece of pipe as a lever worked fabulous! Can you tell me how to resolve it? This may get you enough time to get it to pass smog.
Please call me if you have for some reason solved this Hell filled Ordeal. Have put in new battery but did it again. If you do end up replacing the cat, Id look into a quality aftermarket one. P0410 Oldsmobile Description An air pump is used on the vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The light then goes out after several trips.
We stock air pump parts for most Oldsmobile models including , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and. So I called and ripped them a new one for lying to me. There should be a shrader valve to connect a pressure gauge. That job requires droping the engine on the cradle from the bottom, and who knows what might have been bent. I took it to the mechanic but he couldn't come up with anything I had the same problem. One of mine was bad so I disconnected the vacuum line and plugged up the hose.
You should hear a definite change in the sound of the pump when vacuum applied then released if the valve is working. If you don't hear a wining noise, and your check engine light is on, then you will probaly need to get you air pollution pump replaced. O and I replaced that sensor too just to make sure it wasnt the problem. I went ahead and had to purchase from a dealer. Making sure you test both the line and diaphragms on both sides. But do plan on checking them out if the engine light does not stay off.
I know they are new but, disconnect right side vacuum line from diaphragm and apply vacuum to both the solenoid and vacuum line to make sure both are holding a vacuum. Please call me if you have for some reason solved this Hell filled Ordeal. I have the part numbers some where if you need. Make sure you put the proper size battery in your car as well. The one that was chewed up is now holding pressure and air is currently running through it I checked the other lines and they are not chewed up but there is no air or pressure running through the passenger side diverter hose,I dont know if it is supposed to or not the engine light is still on but I have to wait until tomorrow to have it reset to see if that worked. The injection pump relay is ok.
Also, you can tell if your pump is working by listening to the car on a cold day when the vehicle starts up. Joe - 315 447 3009 - Joe L. The Powertrain Control Module grounds the Air pump relay control circuit which energizes the Air pump. Other than trying to get my moneys worth out of them. Feb 09, 2012 It sounds like Vapor Lock, but that was designed out of most American cars in the late 1980's. Do I need a new fuse? You would have to ground the ground side of the solenoid to activate it.